Well last Friday was the fishing trip, and then the next day we got up crack o dawn and head out for Toubab Dialaw, a bit south of Dakar on the petit cote. It's a small artist community with a few amazing hostel type places and shops along an amazing beach. This was some of the best body surfing I've gotten into in a long time. The architecture is the type of fun and exciting style that is so exciting to run around and explore as a munchkin. So many hidden corners and private spaces for resting or reading - all with their own feast for the eyes. And what's more, the trees that provided the shade for the walkways were full of nests of birds that were hopping from branch to branch negotiating nesting politics.
During the day we had the option of classes of some sort. I opted for the batik fabric dying class since I'd drummed a bit before and needed something for the walls of my room, which are pretty bare. That night we ate what we could - including couscous and vegetables - glorious fiber-rich vegetables that our GI tracts had been begging and pleading to have for weeks now - and even cake with a rich chocolate sauce! After dinner we lounged a bit and enjoyed some more drumming and dancing. We then chatted with the folks that work there over tea for a couple of hours. Tea here is great. It's tastes wonderful and has such a process to it that I'll describe sometime.
The picture is of the road into Dakar which floods pretty regularly during the rainy season. After taking this back to town on Sunday I went and played frisbee with some folks at the field owned by the American Embassy. It's funny how much it felt like America to be there.
Well, it develops that while I was gone my oldest brother's wife had a daughter! This of course means that this coming Sunday there will be a baptism - so now we're gonna have to find a goat to sacrifice for the naming of the munchkin. And on top of that, the maid quit yesterday so the whole family has just been exhausted.
This Saturday I'm going out again with the fishing guys - wish me luck!
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
A few notes and quotes
"So... anyone else notice our french teacher has six fingers?"
"Oooh, this one looks good. Granted, the first ingredient is lard, but we can look past that."
"Well the thing about genetics is that it all comes out in the wash."
"On the way back, the waves will be twice as high because of the wind. See how every one else has gone back already?"
Some of the everyday sensory elements of living here that build on each other are the call to prayer 5 times daily, incense being burned and food being cooked in so many open places that it's hard to tell where these smells are all coming from, at night there seems to always be some sort of celebration or baptism somewhere - in the street or on a rooftop patio people are drumming or chanting together with a rhythm that builds on itself and has a life grander than sum of the contribution of each individual.
If any of you haven't had the chance to check out the links to other folks' blogs on the menu on the right, Michelle updates hers with religious regularity. She's a great writer and includes more photos.
"Oooh, this one looks good. Granted, the first ingredient is lard, but we can look past that."
"Well the thing about genetics is that it all comes out in the wash."
"On the way back, the waves will be twice as high because of the wind. See how every one else has gone back already?"
Some of the everyday sensory elements of living here that build on each other are the call to prayer 5 times daily, incense being burned and food being cooked in so many open places that it's hard to tell where these smells are all coming from, at night there seems to always be some sort of celebration or baptism somewhere - in the street or on a rooftop patio people are drumming or chanting together with a rhythm that builds on itself and has a life grander than sum of the contribution of each individual.
If any of you haven't had the chance to check out the links to other folks' blogs on the menu on the right, Michelle updates hers with religious regularity. She's a great writer and includes more photos.
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
it's time to pray wheer of fish!
For those of you who don't know, one of the parts of this program that was the strongest drawing factor was the internship component. Something I had been having limited progress with for some time - until now.
The original hope was to get my feet a bit wet with the world of food security. This is described in a number of ways in a number of different places, but it's not a new idea. At its core, it's a holisitic way (meaning they understand the complexity of this issue and are examining it from a perspective that includes anthropologists, nutritionists, economists etc) of looking at food systems (food production, aquisition and consumption) with the ultimate aim of ensuring health of people. What's especially neat is that after some decades of arguing about what nutrition means and how it should be addressed (caloric intake vs vitamin content etc) groups have been working towards preserving traditional diet but perhaps increasing the nutritional value of these traditional foods through changing or enhancing techniques at each of the three levels of food systems.
So what?
Well I had a great meet with the potato lady (she spent some time working with the international potato council that keeps seed banks of 90%+ of the world's potato breeds - now that's power) who is getting started on a slightly different project but has put me in the right direction of contacting some folks over here. If nothing else, I'm gonna hang out with her more.
So if none of the alleys that have presented themselves work out, one remains - one that may end up being the most promising.
A buddy who found her internship the second or third week that we were here was writing an article on the largest fish market in Dakar. In walking around and talking with folks, she ran into a guy that wanted to take her out on one of the traditional fishing pirogues but she didn't feel comfortable going by herself so she asked the biggest, beefiest, most-intimidating guy in the country to go with her... me.
My brother came along to double check that they were good folks before i got on and they ended up being the same sect of this brotherhood of islam so he knew they was good people.
It was amazing! We went more than 10km out in the ocean and I caught just as many fish as they did! And after telling them about being a student and wanting to learn as much as possible while i'm here, they insisted that i come out with them again and make a habit of it. Anyway, they're great buddies now and I should be learning a fair amount about fishing by line in the ocean! And, I checked it out with the folks in charge and if nothing else works out, that's gonna be my internship.
Anyway, the picture is of one of the guys' mom's cleaning table, one of the ones i caught is there on the block. She didn't want to be in the photo, so she just ducked down! you can see a bit of her blue bum just to the right of the chopping block.
The original hope was to get my feet a bit wet with the world of food security. This is described in a number of ways in a number of different places, but it's not a new idea. At its core, it's a holisitic way (meaning they understand the complexity of this issue and are examining it from a perspective that includes anthropologists, nutritionists, economists etc) of looking at food systems (food production, aquisition and consumption) with the ultimate aim of ensuring health of people. What's especially neat is that after some decades of arguing about what nutrition means and how it should be addressed (caloric intake vs vitamin content etc) groups have been working towards preserving traditional diet but perhaps increasing the nutritional value of these traditional foods through changing or enhancing techniques at each of the three levels of food systems.
So what?
Well I had a great meet with the potato lady (she spent some time working with the international potato council that keeps seed banks of 90%+ of the world's potato breeds - now that's power) who is getting started on a slightly different project but has put me in the right direction of contacting some folks over here. If nothing else, I'm gonna hang out with her more.
So if none of the alleys that have presented themselves work out, one remains - one that may end up being the most promising.
A buddy who found her internship the second or third week that we were here was writing an article on the largest fish market in Dakar. In walking around and talking with folks, she ran into a guy that wanted to take her out on one of the traditional fishing pirogues but she didn't feel comfortable going by herself so she asked the biggest, beefiest, most-intimidating guy in the country to go with her... me.
My brother came along to double check that they were good folks before i got on and they ended up being the same sect of this brotherhood of islam so he knew they was good people.
It was amazing! We went more than 10km out in the ocean and I caught just as many fish as they did! And after telling them about being a student and wanting to learn as much as possible while i'm here, they insisted that i come out with them again and make a habit of it. Anyway, they're great buddies now and I should be learning a fair amount about fishing by line in the ocean! And, I checked it out with the folks in charge and if nothing else works out, that's gonna be my internship.
Anyway, the picture is of one of the guys' mom's cleaning table, one of the ones i caught is there on the block. She didn't want to be in the photo, so she just ducked down! you can see a bit of her blue bum just to the right of the chopping block.
Thursday, September 15, 2005
Le Roi du Mermoz
This guy is totally in charge of my hood. He's got heart trouble so he can't run around with the other kids - and when he talks he gets this stutter from being short of breath. So instead of getting into trouble, he just keeps track of everyone else's bidness. He lives in my neighborhood with his aunt since his parents are dead and it's closer to the hospital here.
He really is a great kid and has been super patient with practicing wolof and introducing me to other folks in the area.
Just recently he's started asking if I can invite him to come back to the states. This seems to be something of an inevitable course for many relationships.
It's always tough to explain that
a) the US has tons of problems too and that politicians are corrupt everywhere.
b) life can be hard in the states too. maybe even harder since the troubles are so much more subtle. it might be easier to find a job, sure, but life can be much faster and more taxing. These folks complain about how rude and hurried the people of dakar are when compared to the rural senegalese, but they're still much more accomodating and open than your average city-dweller in the states.
c) lots of immigrants make it to the states and are truly unhappy but can't tell anyone at home since whole families usually scrounge to gather the cash to send someone. it's not cool to break the image of the states as a worker's paradise because it devalues the gift of being sent to the states and it kinda squashes a bit of the hope and dream that a lot of folks still hold in the states.
so in the mean time i'll just keep dodging his hints and talk about food instead :-)
He really is a great kid and has been super patient with practicing wolof and introducing me to other folks in the area.
Just recently he's started asking if I can invite him to come back to the states. This seems to be something of an inevitable course for many relationships.
It's always tough to explain that
a) the US has tons of problems too and that politicians are corrupt everywhere.
b) life can be hard in the states too. maybe even harder since the troubles are so much more subtle. it might be easier to find a job, sure, but life can be much faster and more taxing. These folks complain about how rude and hurried the people of dakar are when compared to the rural senegalese, but they're still much more accomodating and open than your average city-dweller in the states.
c) lots of immigrants make it to the states and are truly unhappy but can't tell anyone at home since whole families usually scrounge to gather the cash to send someone. it's not cool to break the image of the states as a worker's paradise because it devalues the gift of being sent to the states and it kinda squashes a bit of the hope and dream that a lot of folks still hold in the states.
so in the mean time i'll just keep dodging his hints and talk about food instead :-)
Thursday, September 01, 2005
Ndank ndank mooy japp golo ci naay
Ndank ndank mooy japp golo ci naay ~ slowly, slowly one catches the monkey in the bush. This of course meaning step by step one accomplishes one's goal. I myself would like to catch a monkey, but I'm not so sure they have those around here. Lots of geckos and iguanas though. Not to mention the bats. Well, maybe I should mention the bats.
The bats are incredible! They're those great big fruit bats that you see on tv sometimes and every night just before the 4th call to prayer, they come to feed on the flowering baobab tree in our courtyard. Usually 4 or 5 at a time, they come in and fly away. Sometimes circling our roof-top patio that gives us such a great vantage point of their feeding. I still get a bit giddy when they come by every night - a bit like the german family (my parents hosted last spring) freaking out about all the squirrels in town. Once it starts to get closer to morning, they all fly back to their homes in the caves of the coastal cliffs.
As for the rest of my family beyond the bats, they're great too. My host dad here is a Wolof writer, editor and professor which is definitely coming in handy. We joke a lot since his English is only slightly better than my wolof - so we usually stick away from french just for kicks. The mom is great too. She's got such a fun attitude and can usually be found lounging around the house or joking with her oldest son. In total, they have 5 children, 4 guys and a lady ranging from 16 to mid-30s. Everyone lives at home of course.
Skip following paragraph if not interested in family details -
oldest son - Pape has lived in paris for the last 15 years or so working on his PhD in computer science so he's completely westernized. at meal times no one is supposed to talk, touch food with the left hand or look up, but the first night i ate with him he was chattin' it up, lookin around and passing food with the left hand. The rest of the siblings don't like him because he's given himself the authority to tell folks how to live even though he's never in town except for the rare vactation.
second oldest son - Cledor is a divorced, 32 year-old Baay fall. He has a daughter from that marriage that has only come to see him 3 times. As for being a Baay fall, this is a group within the Mauride brotherhood of Islam that are kinda like Rastas. I'll post something about them later, these guys are really interesting folks. He studied law, but teaches high school now because he doesn't want to be a judge since that's too serious of a gig.
daughter - Bijou didn't talk to me at first, but apparently that's a sign of respect? And I thought she might hate me because she and the third oldest son were screaming at each other and dropping my name a bit, but apparently my Wolof teacher thinks this means she likes me... Hmm... She has actually gotten nicer as time has passed... We'll just have to see.
third oldest son - Soer teaches munchkins in elementary school. He's a bit thugged out, but loves kids so it's clear that he's a good guy and has a taste for simplicity. We get along pretty well which is good since we probably hang out together the most. Judging from the direction a number of our conversations take, it seems that one of their main motivations for hosting a student was to show them that life is much harder in Africa than in the states... I'm not gonna say they're preaching to the choir, I'm just hoping they'll pick up some of my feelings about this stuff so they can see a bit more of the complexities that are in the layers of folks from the states.
youngest son - Makxo didn't really talk to me either at first but now we're buddies. This is good. He's the same age as boy and really likes video games.
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