estoy vomitando!

I didn't want to give too many details about this Cotopaxi climb before I left, partly because I didn't want to worry anyone, partly because I didn't really know them!

The summit is around 5,900 meters, roughly 3.7 miles high, or 19,360 feet. They don't keep much air up there so most folks don't even make it. As it turns out lots of people get sick even just staying in the refuge before the climb. My first experience with Cotopaxi was my freshman year in a class on globalization and shamanism that went to ecuador for 10 days. On a flight on a cloudy day from Quito to Cuenca, the only thing above the clouds we could see was Cotopaxi. It wasn't until later that I heard that folks climb this beast, then last year i met a group that was planning on making the ascent without a guide. This is like trying to eat cheerios without a spoon. Some people have done it, some even like it, but it's not normal.

Well we got all our gear and had a quick lesson on how to use our ice axe and crampons (spikes that strap on to your shoes to help you stand on snowy mountains) before bed. Normally they have a practice session but it was snowing so hard we couldn't really go outside. A good sign the night before a climb...

They woke us up at 12, we had breakfast and started climbing. The air's so thin that you can really only make a step every second or two if you're not completely acclimated. One of the best things about a night climb is the headlamps of the groups going before you snailing up the curves of the volcano. Comfort in strangers that have gone before you and accomplished their aims.

We really only took breaks every hour or so, and made it up to the top of the glacier when I started to feel ill. The trail blazers quit switching back and forth to help with the incline and decided to head straight up. So for two hours we're throwing everything we've got at this trail. But this was just as the sun came up so it made for amazing tricks with the snow, clouds, ice and neighboring mountains. I could almost forget how sick i felt.

We stopped for one break near the top of the glacier and the powerade I had been drinking was just entirely too much sugar and not enough water and my body decided to pull out the veto. So, while our guide was fixing his gloves or something i started puking of the side of the mountain. After the second or third iteration, our guide says "listo?" - "ready?" and all i could shout back was "no! estoy vomitando!" - "no! i'm vomiting!" he didn't seem to notice and kept going. we caught up with him after a quick clean up and made it to the summit. I'd upload the exact same picture at the top, only featuring me but I can't put my hands on my camera cable... I'm sure you get the idea though.

After we got back, it occured to me that my heart hadn't stopped racing to push oxygen to all the parts of me since we'd gotten to the refugio and we'd been hiking a formidable incline for some 9 hours straight. My buddy Joff and I were the only ones to make the summit in a group of 6, which is partly because it's so tough, but also because it's a total crap shoot how your body will react to the altitude. I think I know what a marathon feels like now. I can say without hesitation that this was the hardest thing I've ever done but it was such a blast.