titicaca... it's not a dirty word

It's actually quechua for "puma rock." A reference to the giant rock on Isla del Sol, where Manco Kapac, the first Inca, supposedly was born.

Titicaca is more than just a word that makes you giggle. As the world's highest navigable lake (s. america is full of qualifier-loaded superlatives, see cotopaxi) it's quite literally breathtaking to trek around its islands and chat a bit with folks from each of the culturally distinct islands.

The photo is of an Uro woman from whom i bought a wall hanging. The Uros are a group of folks that, in looking to escape the imperalistic incas, developed the technology of floating islands. Using native reed plants and roots, they make the very ground they build their houses on. And it's one of the wackiest places i've ever been. They can't fish or hunt birds anymore because the lake has been given protected status, so now they rely completely on tourism. They also use their reed technology to make huge boats (now just used to move tourists from one island to the next), but it's folks from this area that Thor Heyerdahl contracted to construct a raft to sail across the pacific, and in spite of everyone's doubts, they made it to indonesia.

We stayed for a night on Amantani island, which has only had tourists visiting for some 16 or 17 years. In talking to the family, they said they only leave the island to buy some supplies in Puno. It was a blast staying with these folks, they dressed us goofy gringos up in traditional ponchos and knit caps and we had ourselves a bit of an island sock hop. The dad of the family gave us the warmest tightest hug when we left it was one of the sweetest parts of this trip by far.

We then went to taquile island, the other big island on the peruvian side. These guys also depend on tourism, but have been running since the 70s. The main cultural difference between Amantani and Taquile is that apparently a spaniard from barcelona made his way to the island and afterwards, all the guys changed their style. They wear 16th century spanish peasant fashions, and these delightful floppy knit caps that make everybody look like a bunch of elves. They come in three styles, first for single, divorced or widowed guys, second for married gents, and third for administrators. When we were waiting for lunch, they were having a meeting in the main plaza on the island where some buddy from Lima was rambling on about how they need to participate in national elections becuase ("i promise," he says emphatically, "really i do") politics in lima can change life on the island... maybe he didn't notice they were wearing clothes from 500 years ago... they didn't seem too quick to change to me.

The last island i went to on lake titicaca was Isla del sol. This is the spot where the incas say the first inca, Manco Kapak was born from the puma stone - thus titicaca. There's a temple to the sun, an old sacrificial table and a separate island for keeping virgins until sacrifice time... you know, the works. I stayed overnight here too, met a few lovely americans, a development economist from s. africa and an awesome bunch of kids. The thing about these kids was that they're told to get money if someone takes their photo. I'm of the opinion though that these guys are way too young to be making the decision to get into the business of selling themselves. So, instead of money or even giving candy, it seems much better to play a game or teach a song, thus when they ask for more, it's something that's fun for everybody and it's natural kid stuff. Anyway, we played a couple rousing halves of an hour long soccer game and one of the americans i was with wanted to take a photo of our new bunch of amiguitos. But immediately after, the mood of the bunch took a 180. They started asking for money. We asked "we're friends now right?" some nod yes, some shake no. We wouldn't have caved to give them money except from the look on their faces, it was clearly a rule from on high (ma + pa) and it was too difficult to qualify the situation for them. But it was really one of the most beautiful, calm and quiet places i've ever been.